Bordeaux on my birthday

April 25.

Today began overcast again and, as usual, eventually turned to off-and-on light drizzle. After a somewhat leisurely breakfast marred only by having to contend with dozens of young skaters (more of that in a moment) we left the hotel and began our day of meandering. 

Before I move on to our touring of the city I should mention that our hotel and presumably one or two others in the vicinity was hosting dozens of young skaters from seven different countries, including the USA, here to compete in the Nations Cup & Gold Cup international ice ballet and theater on ice competition. Since the event just began today and runs through the 28th, we apparently are doomed to have to undergo our own morning competition over breakfast seating, food and coffee. Moreover, no one seemed to be in charge of monitoring the students, whose ages range from preteen to older teens. We did run into one adult mother and her mother, who happened to be from Rhode Island, and they explained that there are a variety of age categories represented, some as young as 10-12 years old. They also pointed out that the French had been doing ballet on ice competitions for more than 30 years and the Americans got into the act about a dozen years ago. 

Leaving the hotel we made our way on foot to place Gambetta, a lovely park and square surrounded by cafes and shops, rather typical of many of the places large and small in Bordeaux. We passed by the porte Dijeaux, one of the original gates into the city.

place Gambetta

porte Dijeaux

From the place we made our way to the nearby Basilica of Saint-Severinus. One of two very unique aspects of this rather unassuming church is it has two well-defined entrances to the crypt below the church proper. In the crypt are sarcophagi dating back to the 4th to 6th centuries. Outside in the small park adjoining the church is an ancient early Christian necropolis dating to the same period, which was unfortunately closed when we were there. Fascinating.

down to the crypt

up top, the exterior of the crypt entrance

sarcophagi

additional tombs below the grate

entrance to the ancient Christian necropolis beneath the park

In addition, the pave stoned walkway along the church grounds is part of the Santiago de Compostela pilgrim route.

you are looking at the ground above the necropolis

We went in search for coffee and stopped at one of many of Baillardran's cafes, a warm and quiet place to enjoy a hot beverage and a mini canelé. Eventually we walked to back to place Gambetta in search of the line B tram stop to take us back to the hotel. 

That evening Pauline picked another lovely place for dinner: Chai Maestro, a short 15-minute walk from our hotel. Oh, and chai (pronounced SHAY, not the tea) is the French word for an above ground storage space for wine. We're learning new things every day!

Next: La Cité du Vin and fun with trams!