Day 5 in the Loire Valley

 [2 April]

It was a last-minute decision to head to the village of Blois. We had already planned on using one travel day on our rail passes while we were in Tours. We felt Blois was far enough upriver that we probably wouldn't make it there by car with Richard and Pauline so off we went to the train station. 

Ah but which train station, that was the rub. The main station in Tours, the one just down our street, is closed for at least the next couple of weeks due to the previously mentioned fire that put us in a bit of a snafu upon our arrival a few days ago. So we had to make our way back out to the suburbs to St. Pierre des Corps.

After a very leisurely morning we walked the 10 minutes or so to the TI office and purchased our slightly reduced rate tickets to the Château de Blois. We had discovered that we could get Bus 5 right across the street from  the TI and in front of le Gare de Tours. Since our public transport passes were still valid, we hopped right on the no. 5. After a short trip with various stops along the way, we were soon at the St. Pierre des Corps station.

Our train to Blois was posted as delayed just a few minutes, but it turned out we left on time anyway.

Only a 40 minute trip to Blois, the ride was smooth, quiet, and stress-free. The station in Blois (pronounced "blwah") is quite unique and reflects the serious attention to cyclists using the train. There's a bike parking area and a circular ramp that allows bikes to be ridden up/down to cross platforms or exit. And scooter users like it too. Whee! Pretty slick.

Although it was a pretty straightforward walk to the château we managed to get ourselves turned around with a stroll through the king's bastion before making our way back down to the street and the entrance to the château. 

Along the way we came across two very nice pieces of sculpture, one a memorial to the soldiers who died in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71 and another to the goddess Diana by the American sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington.

From the end of bastion we could see the "backside" of the château so we knew we were close.

Back down to the street just past the TI office near a tea room that looked enticing and around the corner, we found the entrance. Entry was easy since the TI office had emailed the tickets directly to my phone. Ah technology.

If you would like to know more go to the Wikipedia site and the official site.

Perhaps the most notable feature today is the spiral staircase in the Francis I wing just inside the entrance.

A number of pieces of the original château -- it was heavily restored  in the 19th century --- have been preserved.

For one interested in period architecture, textiles and furniture this is a paradise indeed.

"The Cycle of War and Peace" tapestry

the Queen's gallery

view of Blois and the river Loire from Foix terrace 

"So Irresistible" by Laurance Dreano (2019)

Leaving the château we made our way back toward the station, stopping at the tea salon (O'Chateau) we noticed on the way in. We ordered a couple glasses of Cheverny rosé, and Susan tried a slice of their quiche Lorraine, concluding it was superb!

We returned to the station shortly before our train arrived. The return trip was uneventful as we slid through the lovely flat and agricultural Loire countryside. The fun began when we returned to Tours.

Since the previously mentioned fire on March 29 near the main Tours station has disrupted so much local (and not-so-local) traffic, the national railway company SNCF (snick-if) has scrambled to try and make things as smooth as possible for commuters.

As we were leaving the platform there was announcement -- which Susie picked up on right away -- regarding free shuttles back to the center of town. We confirmed that with SNCF staff and were directed back toward the underground access to the platforms. We hoofed it all the way to the end and up behind the tracks and found the free shuttle busses. Yay!

We cooled our heels on the bus for about 20 minutes as other shuttles were dropping off passengers coming in for departures. Once en route it was a short ride into town with our drop off right in front of the Tours main station.

We had to go inside this lovely building. Snick-if staff were there as well, scattered around helping travelers as best they could. The absence of trains was a bit eerie though.

aboard the shuttle bus

We hope to repeat this trip, albeit it in reverse, next Wednesday when we leave for Lyon. Otherwise it will be back on the old No. 5.

But that's almost a week away. For the time being we're just happy to be here, enjoying life in France. 

Leaving the station we walked across the street to the TI where I bought an apron and then made our way up the street to the apartment. For dinner I took the leftover chicken and potatoes, drizzled with olive oil and persillade and into the oven they went to be paired with fresh blanched broccoli. While we were prepping dinner our host dropped by to change the filter in our coffee machine and we learned that although he is French he in fact lives in Lisbon, Portugal!

Tomorrow: We hoper to catch up on some home chores but our meeting up with Richard and Pauline will be the highlight so stay tuned!

Day 4 in the Loire Valley

[1April]

Another gorgeous morning here in Tours. And we slept in again. But we're fortunate to have the time to enjoy being leisurely, no pressure to rush here or there to see a thing or get in line to visit something old and important. Nope. Just sit and sip coffee and this morning our treat was a scrumptious brioche feuilletée we bought at the boulangerie at the market yesterday. A quick warm-up in the oven and we were back in the world of French Tarte treats.  

Last night we ate our first serious meal at home. I blanched a big pot of potatoes, let them cool , and then smashed them with some olive oil and herbs and then into a very hot oven to get them nice and crispy. Meanwhile, I turned to blanching some broccoli -- a head that reminded us of the broccoli we get at our farmer's market in the summer, large and tight and oh so good. Washed down with a lovely rosé from Anjou. A tasty meal, as it turned out, enjoyed by all.

Eventually the blue sky and warm sun drew us outside. We walked over to the rue Nationale, the main shopping area and along which runs the light rail/tram that runs from airport and northern suburbs to south of the city. After a stop in the Monoprix we bought a pair of day passes for the public transport. The ticket kiosks were a bit confusing at first but we soon figured out how to use our credit card and with passes in hand we waited for the next tram.

Once aboard we settled in for the next hour and a half or so and rode the tram all the way south and then all the way back north just to get a sense of the city and its environs. 

The seats were comfortable, the ride smooth and quiet (the tram is electric). It's a wonderful way to see a city that one wouldn't normally experience when just visiting for a few days. Although it lacked "tour guide" information it was almost like the ubiquitous hop-on-hop-off tour buses we have used in the past - but at a fraction of the cost and without the crowds.

We eventually disembarked along rue Nationale near rue Colbert and made our way to the old quarter, which is also close to Les Halles, our last stop for the afternoon.

at the edge of the old quarter

in the old quarter

place Plumereau

place Plumereau

We popped into Les Halles market mid afternoon to pick up a rotisserie chicken for dinner but discovered that most of the vendors were closed up. We were perplexed and puzzled to say the least (we eventually assumed they would reopen later in the day for the evening traffic and we would be right). So we walked home and enjoyed a delicious late lunch -- most places had closed up until supper time -- consisting of local bread and wonderful cheese, both of which we had picked up at Les Halles yesterday.

A little after 5:00 pm (1700) we left the apartment and headed back to Less Halles (yup, we're doing a lot of walking). School had just let out and the teenagers were everywhere, including at all the outdoor cafes, smoking, laughing and just enjoying the life here in France.

the Monster

We ambled over to the market and it was hoppin'! All the vendors were open waiting for folks to come in looking for food for dinner tonight -- just like us.

our vendor of choice for rotisserie chicken and roasted potatoes

the small round of cheese in the center is local goat cheese and recommended by the cheesemonger

Leaving Les Halles we tried a couple of kitchen stores looking for a cheese slicer (we found one). This one store had a guillotine. . . but it was only for sausage.

And finally, here's tonight's dinner with fresh broccoli and a Saumur-Champigny! And for those not familiar with how this works, the large rotisseries are set up so that the chickens roast slowly on racks of spits and their droppings fall onto the potatoes layered in a large tray at the bottom. Efficient and incredibly flavorful way to cook.

Tomorrow: Day trip by train to Blois (we hope!).

Day 3 in the Loire Valley

 [31 March]

Today was spent tidying up a few getting-to-know-the-city loose ends. After a fitful night's sleep for both of us we were greeted by a lovely morning and enjoyed coffee and a light breakfast at home.

Once we roused ourselves we headed off to the city's Tourist Office. Located across from the main train station and just a few blocks down our street, it was a short walk. We picked up some brochures of course and chatted with one of the agents who answered a couple of key questions (mainly regarding the Tours City Pass and the public transportation tickets).

the Tourist Office

From the TI office we strolled down Boulevard Heurteloup to rue Nationale where we turned north in the direction of the river. Making our way past the oh-so-many shops, large and small (including Galleries Lafayette and Monoprix Home) and following along the city's one-and-only tram line, we turned off at rue des Les Halles in search of the city's main indoor market.

we passed up this boulangerie in hopes for bread at Les Halles

And of course for the best pulled pork in the city you would go to Lazy Suzy.

A few minutes later we found our second objective for the day, Les Halles, the main indoor market. Unfortunately, most of the vendors were closed (it being Monday), but we did find a very nice woman running a large produce stand and picked up some potatoes and broccoli for dinner tonight. We also stopped at a fromagerie where we got a small wedge of Brillat Savarin and Tomme de Navarre as well as a local goat cheese, the latter being very creamy and delicious.

We also scored a loaf of pain intégrale (a healthy, hearty whole wheat loaf) a couple of croissants and two brioche feuillitée at the one open boulangerie. As we were strolling here and there it became abundantly clear to us that many shops are closed on Sundays and Mondays.

We made our way back home, dropped off our groceries, relaxed for just a few minutes before heading back out. 

First up was a stop to see the inside of the cathedral. But when we approached the place de Cathédrale, it was half full of people waiting for something, and that something was a funeral service. While everyone else was waiting we popped inside for a few minutes-- just long enough to see the wonderful tomb of the two young children of Charles VIII and Anne of Brittany before leaving. And also to realize how very cold it was inside. 

Making way back through the crowds we found a bench on the place where we could watch the process of a family saying their final goodbye to a loved one. And there were a lot of people saying their goodbyes.

From the cathedral we made our way back to rue Colbert and Carrefour express to pick up a few groceries. Grocery picking up becomes a state of mind here, at least for us, and we don't regret it for a minute.

Please note the carton of 20 eggs for about 4 bucks. And in Grand Rapids they're paying nearly $11 dollars for 24!

As we turned down our street a parade of probably 75-100 youngsters with teachers all dressed in a variety of costumes some rather outlandish but cute, passed us on the way back to the school (at the end of our street).

After leaving our groceries it was back out and over to the river for a short walk over the Saint-Symphorien (pont de fil) pedestrian bridge that crosses the Loire river to the Paul Bert Quartier.

looking downstream

our street in the middle of the block of buildings

the sign notes 863 cycles across the bridge today and over 101,000 this year

It was then home and a home cooked meal for us!

Tomorrow: exploring farther afield in Tours using a day pass on the public transit. That's the plan and right now we're sticking with it.