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Sunday, August 05, 2012

Quebec -- the city, more or less

First off let me say that we have been thinking a trip to Quebec for years -- everyone we've ever spoken to who visited the city talked about it's old world charm, its unique architecture and incredible location on the heights overlooking the confluence of the Saint Lawrence and Saint Charles Rivers.

The views certainly were striking, and yes the Frontenac imposing (much like Quebecois food) but the two of us suffered from several key disappointments.

One was of our own making, the preconception we carried with us that Quebec was somehow an outpost of France, let alone Paris. This, we quickly discovered, was so far from true that after the fact we wondered how we could have ever thought such a foolish thing?

We were disappointed in the weather (aren't we always?); I mean, after all, Quebec City is located at a latitude north of the northern shore of Lake Superior and yet it was beastly hot (in the 90s the entire time we were there) and muggy enough for us to wonder if we hadn't turned south from Providence and ended in Miami.

We were disappointed in the (lack of good) pastry shops and amazed at how many mediocre restaurants seemed to dominate the culinary landscape.

I was disappointed in two key things, as a tourist: the absence of Impressionist paintings in the art museum and lack of interpretive signage on the "Plains of Abraham," one of the defining moments in the history of "New France." As for the latter, in regards to helpful interpretation, the city would do well to emulate several of the American Civil War battlefields.

On the upside, the people were incredibly friendly, lively, and eager to engage in conversation. And the tourist center across the plaza from the Frontenac is definitely worth a stop to get your bearings, assistance with tickets or to use the bathrooms. And speaking of the latter, the city has done a wonderful job of making public facilities accesible.

We spent a great deal of time strolling the old part of the city, although for anyone with a walking disability this would prove quite challenging since it is largely a matter of up-and-down. It was only on our last day that we came to appreciate those neighborhoods a bit further out from those "tourist" corners of Quebec -- but not everyone has the luxury of time.

So, having gotten that out of my system here are few graphic clues as to what you might see if you go to Quebec City:

in the lower part of the old city, near the old port
Montmorency Park
overlooking the Saint Lawrence
still in the lower part of the old city


Montmorency Park (it is small but spectacular views and a cool chair -- see below)

statue to Samuel de Champlain, in front of the Frontenac
street performers in the upper part of the old city
true love. . . 
in case you'd forgotten, this is the Saint Lawrence River

quiet residential street near the Frontenac
what appeared to hundreds of thousands of tourist working their way from the lower to the upper part of the old city
boardwalk with the Frontenac to the right (out of camera range) and the citadel straight ahead
monument to Wolfe (rebuilt several times)
lovely park dedicated to Joan of Arc
entrance to the citadel
Plains of Abraham (yawn) -- a nice park overlooking the river
Governors' Promenade -- several thousand steps that seemed to go on and up for miles
Parliament
Just in case you'd forgotten about Joan
A tower you can't go into unless you're part of a group (go ahead, ask)

Maurice Duplesis
Adelard Godbout
Charles "Chuck" DeGaulle -- a bit shorter than the Parisian version with odd chipmunk cheeks
Residential side street near the Battlefields Park
Funiculaire -- getting from lower to upper parts of the old city
Frontenac from the river 
celebrating Nouvelle France
replica of the Wallace fountains in Paris - no, I don't know why
street art
Hotel de Ville -- city hall
Governors' Promenade from the Saint Lawrence River
just in case you forgot about Wolfe -- Montcalm's monument is lost amidst the buildings off the Grand Alle

our river cruise boat returns safe and sound
the city looking west from near Isle d'Orleans
Montcalm's monument
street art in the shade of was Saint Matthew's  Church and is now a public library
where Montcalm died -- rue Saint Louis
rue Saint Jean
a bit of the old world indeed
waiting for something to happen (it doesn't)
looking toward the inside of the old walls
street art, rue Saint Jean
celebrating Nouvelle France

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