Steve in another life

c. 1952

 

Train to Bordeaux

April 23.

The day was cool and a bit breezy when we checked out and walked the long two blocks to the train station. We easily found our train listed on the BIG BOARD and made our way through security and then to queue up to await being let down onto the platform -- rather like at the airport. 

It was another 20-30 minutes before the arriving train had unloaded its passengers and we were given the green light. Off we went in search of our train car. A few short minutes and we were aboard, stashed our bags in the closest racks and found our seats. The trip to Narbonne where we would change trains took about 2 hours and was uneventful. For me it was sheer stress-free pleasure watching the highway traffic as we zipped by passing everyone on the 6-lane highway that seemed to match our route much of the way. 

We left our train to continue its journey to Paris while we stepped out onto a chilly windy platform in Narbonne to await our transfer train for Bordeaux. 

And then the trip turned a bit disturbing. A couple of trains -- both heading east to Marseilles and Montpellier -- were cancelled outright and our train, coming from Avignon I believe, was listed as one hour, 10 minutes late. We schlepped our bags into the cramped rather tired waiting area and soon found a couple of seats. Fortunately our train was never reported as cancelled but the schedule board didn't update the arrival/departure times. Hmmmm. 

At last the board showed our train arriving -- I checked with an agent in the ticket office and he said yes indeed it was arriving in about 10 minutes on platform B. 

Off we went down the stairs and up another set to the platform. Sure enough the train did show up, all in all about an hour 20 minutes late. We were thrilled to get on and settle in for the four hour ride to Bordeaux in warmth and comfort.

Narbonne station

Our journey took us past Carcassonne where we could see the ancient walled city from the train, then through Toulouse and along the Canal de Garonne and finally along the Garonne River until we reached Bordeaux.

The Garonne

Getting off the train was easy but after a bit of challenge in finding the taxi stand, we were whizzing our way through town to our hotel. 

Before long we were out of cab and no sooner had we walked into the hotel than Richard and Pauline greeted us at the door with hugs all round -- they had been in the bar waiting for us. 

We hurriedly check in, dropped our bags in the room and met them back in the bar for a much-needed aperitif and toasts all round!

 Ibis Bordeaux Centre Mériadeck

That evening the four of us opted to stay in the hotel for dinner. I had steak frites, Richard had the plat du jour (braised pork with mashed potatoes) and Pauline and Susie each had Dorade. For dessert Richard and I each had the Canelés with ice cream and Susie and Pauline had the tarte aux pommes.

steak frites

dorade

Canelés with ice cream

tarte aux pommes

Next: Bordeaux in the rain!

Barcelona for one more day

 April 22.

The day began with rain. Since we had little on our agenda until early afternoon (timed tickets to Parc Güell), after breakfast we did laundry. OK, Susie did the laundry but I went along for moral support.

On our way back to the hotel yesterday we noticed -- actually I noticed -- a laundromat right around the corner from our lodgings. And since it was open we popped inside to check it out. It was entirely automated, three washers and three dryers, and so we planned to return the next morning.

Talk about one slick operation: you choose a washing machine, place your laundry inside, close the door (no soap required - the machine automatically dispenses it!), stick your card in the chip reader, choose the machine number and hit start on the machine. That's it! Once the wash was done we repeated the process with the dryer. After a total of about 50 minutes and some €7.00, laundry that would have cost €80 done through the hotel was finito!

washers and control panel

the dryers

Back at the hotel we worked on our blog notes until time to head out for the Parc Güell, designed by Antoni Gaudi. (Go here for more information.)

Looking for the Entença Metro stop near our hotel, we somehow got turned around and eventually decided to backtrack one stop to the train station. There we boarded the no. 5 and changed to the familiar no. 3 at Diagonal. Getting off at the Lesseps station we went off in search of Parc Güell. Of course we got lost. We made the mistake of following signs for the parc that were apparently pointing to the bus and car parking areas. We turned to Google maps and soon found our way, a way that was all uphill. In fact most of this particular outing involved going uphill, every single step of the way.

Although we arrived slightly ahead of our time slot the staff kindly let us in. Once inside the park we strolled the gardens with little direction other than following altitude: heading upwards to the views of the city. We passed a series of viaducts that were originally intended for carriages to make their way upwards to the homes that were planned but never built. But the viaducts also provided lots of shade for walkers beneath them as well as many built-in seats to stop and enjoy the moment. Which we did, often.

So, for the next hour or two we simply meandered through this rather fantastic bit of green space, continuing upwards. But the climb was worth it for the views of the city. 

looking across to the fort on Montjuïc where we were yesterday

Near the very top we ran into a couple from Grand Haven, Michigan who had just arrived in Spain the day before. They planned to be in Barcelona for just five days and then back to the US.

across from the top of the park was a view of the Calvary Cross

which was just a short walk away

for even more incredible views of the city

the white house is a look back to the top of the park

Leaving Calvary we made our way down to the park entrance passing some of the more popular tourist spots in the park with the Gaudi designs.

the terrace

the portico

beneath the terrace

the main entrance to the park

looking back to the terrace

From the park we made our way back to the hotel to relax until dinner. A little after 7:00 pm we walked a couple of blocks to El Bierzo, a traditional Catalan restaurant. Susie had a cod omelet and I had a starter of tempura veggies followed by hake with potatoes.

A quick walk back to the hotel and Susie finished packing us up for our morning departure for France.

Next: Off to Bordeaux!

Barcelona on a Sunday

April 21.

Since many if not most things are closed on Sunday and, since we needed a little down time ourselves, we had a leisurely breakfast and morning in the hotel. 

But the sun called us out eventually and before long we were on the Metro heading toward Montjuïc, an outdoor park and so much more. Home to the 1992 summer Olympics besides the village and stadium is also the Fundació de Joan Miró, as well as numerous gardens, paths, facilities of sone sort or another and at the very top the castle, an old fortress with incredible views of the city. That was our destination for the day.

The Metro line connected easily to the funicular that would take us midway up the mountain. From there we would be on our own.

Once we left the funicular station we strolled the park, or rather a series of loosely connected green spaces. There is a cable car that goes to the top but the queue was looooooooong.

to the left is the entrance to the cable car

part of the 1992 Olympic complex

From the Olympic village complex we walked back toward the funicular station. Since we weren't getting any truly serious views of the city we thought we'd make our way to the the castell at the very top. So we hopped on the no. 150 bus (the Metro tickets are good for busses as well) and rode to the top.

An old fort, the guns are now used for kids to play on and adults to write on. . .

\

entrance to the castell

tunnel leading to the central parade ground

views from the top

central parade ground, now a cafe

a vast near-emptiness

looking north toward Costa Brava and France

Leaving the castell we made our way back down the mountain on bus no. 150 which dropped us off at Plaça d'Espanya.

Las Arenas in the background

From the bus stop we made our way toward Las Arenas in hopes of finding a place for a late lunch. Nestled up against the old bullfighting ring was Tapa-Tapa where we had to queue for a table inside. But we didn't have to wait long. We soon found ourselves seated in a peaceful corner and ordered some cava and tapas.

Our placemats doubled as the menu. We shared a plate of tomato bread and delicious wok veggies followed by a couple of different chicken tapas. Pretty tasty!

Leaving the restaurant we wandered into Las Arenas. Although most of the shops were closed, the food areas were all open as was the upper observation deck. 

Next: Parc Güell and more from the mind of Antonio Gaudi.

Back to the hotel for a light supper.