Barcelona on a Saturday Night

April 20 Evening.

One of the two food events we planned for this trip was a market tour followed by a paella cooking class in Barcelona (the second will be a market and cooking class in Paris). For the paella class, which was arranged through the Air BnB Experiences site, we were instructed to meet at the entrance to La Boqueria, the large indoor food market off La Rambla near the old quarter. 

When one thinks of the concept of a sea of humanity that perfectly describes the scene along La Rambla on a Saturday afternoon. The market was packed with tourists and locals alike jostling one another trying to buy something to eat now or ingredients to prepare food later. We arrived at the market early so we opted to fight the crowds and explore a bit on our own.

Most of the stalls were specialty food vendors: vegetables, meat, fish, spices, etc. 

nothing but eggs

carne

peppers galore

offal

olives

nuts

yes these are potato chip spirals

and still more pepper

We returned to the entrance about 5:00 pm to meet our instructor and the other members of our cooking class: an Italian couple, five people from New Orleans who were in Spain for a wedding, and Susie and myself made nine. Once all of us were accounted for, Maria our instructor handed out the earpieces so we could (1) stay in touch with her and not get lost and (2) hear her running commentary about ingredients for paella and so much more.

First stop was a wine vendor where Maria gave us a short talk about Catalan wines and we were each handed a glass of Cava to carry with us while we explored the market with her. She also gave us a short history of the market, explaining that it had been in operation since the 13th century but moved farther out of the city in the 18th century replaced by a monastery. But apparently the people of the city preferred the market so back it came and has remained here ever since.

the Cava stop

Next we headed over to the vegetable vendor to buy tomatoes for our tomato bread starter along with fruit for the Sangria that we'll be drinking while we make the paella.

It was then on to spices for a quick lesson about the crucial paella spices (saffron and paprika).

Another stop was at one of the pork vendors where Maria discussed jamon ham and where we got to taste a bit of the expensive stuff (from the free-range pigs who eat nothing but acorns). Yes, it did melt in the mouth.

Moving on to the fishmonger Maria launched into quite an informative presentation on the various types of fish that go into seafood paella, including shrimp, langoustine, mussels, and cuttlefish.

After the market tour it was off to the kitchen! From La Boqueria it was a short walk through several narrow alleyways -- we were now officially in the old quarter -- to the kitchen venue. It was a lovely space where we would be spending the next few hours enjoying what life has to offer including cava, Sangria, wonderful camaraderie and good food.

the door middle right

dining area

kitchen

After settling in we all sat at the dining table and were provided with the ingredients to create our own tomato bread: rubbing raw garlic on a piece of toast followed by smashing and rubbing a tomato half then a drizzle of oil and salt and pepper. And voilá! All washed down with cava, of course.

tomato bread starter

Next it was time to cook. We were given our aprons in the kitchen and the Sangria was made, the jug located conveniently in the corner of the work table where we could top off our glasses as needed. We were then given our respective tasks: I was garlic boy and my job was to rub the garlic all over the base of the paella pan. Susie was oil girl and subsequently rice-stirring girl. There was also lobster boy, squid girls, mussel girl, ink boy, and so on. 

Lobster boy places the langoustines in cold oil; the idea is to infuse the oil with the fish flavor as it becomes hot. Maria explained that IF you put the fish into already hot oil, it cooks the fish quickly but doesn't allow the flavor to develop. Interesting.

starting the gas

lobster girl turns the langoustines once

the cuttlefish gets added along with the shrimp

rice is added along with ink

rice is simmering

mussel girl places the mussels decoratively around the cooked shellfish

squid girl 2 helps to cover the dish so it can steam

carried to the table for serving

the team, courtesy of our instructor!

Dinner over, it was time to say goodbye to newly minted friends with whom we shared lots of fun, good humor and a chance to use our Italian in the bargain. It had been a wonderful evening.

Back outside we all went our separate ways and for us it was a 10-minute walk to our Metro stop and home for the night.

Next: Climbing Montjuïc (by funicular) for the views of the city.