Nova Scotia to Maine

Cold and rainy (again) this Monday morning. We met up with Richard and Pauline in the hotel restaurant and said our good-byes; they had an airport shuttle to catch and we had many more miles to go on our way home to Michigan. We'll miss Pauline's quick wit and gentle sense of humor and Richard's canny ability to put the world in its proper context. Good friends are hard to come by these days and good traveling companions even more so. 

We were on the road by a little before 10am heading north to Moncton, New Brunswick where we switched to Rte 1 west to Saint John and on to the US border at Calais, Maine. The 4-lane roads were excellent and traffic was light -- indeed there were times we were the only car on the road -- but the persistent rain along with several quick stops slowed us by perhaps a half hour or so. 

Once across the border the road dropped to 2 lanes but we still sped along to Bangor, arriving at our hotel about 4pm (local time, 5pm Nova Scotia time). Susie texted her sister Joyce and we planned to meet for dinner at Mason's Brewery just across the Penobscot River in Brewer, ME. (We had probably come very near to the place on our way into greater Bangor.)

Susie and I arrived a bit early and grabbed a table, Joyce and Avery arriving a few minutes later. The meal was very good -- starters of crispy cauliflower and crunchy Brussel sprouts followed by a round of sandwiches and a salad for Susie. The conversation was warm and afterwards we drove to their house to pick up a few items we left there a week ago. It's hard to imagine it has only been a week and we have seen so many new and wonderful things; but then travel should be that way, don't you think?

Tomorrow will take us along very familiar territory: south on I-95 to I-495 to I-290 and to I-90 and the Mass Pike, ending in Albany for the night. Then it will be a long day's drive straight through to Grand Rapids.

The long way home

After some 2,300 miles we began our long return back to Michigan. Sunday morning was cold with a promise of rain (a promised not kept fortunately). After breakfast and tidying up we packed the car; fortunately Pauline had taken a photo of our success in packing the cargo space when we left Halifax so we spent little time fussing with the bags. 

But before leaving Baddeck, we had one final stop to make: the Alexander Graham Bell national historic site. 

While his home and family cemetery is located north of town and is not accessible to the public -- the family still owns it -- the exhibition halls showing his work in helping the deaf to speak as well as his work in early aviation among numerous other inventions, made this a most illuminating and worthwhile stop.

Once we left Baddeck we returned to the 105 and drove south to the Canso Causeway and off Cape Breton Island onto Rte 104 in the direction of Truro. 

It wasn't long before we found ourselves back in Antigonish, where we stopped for lunch at Justamere, right off the highway (and I had a scrumptious fish burger). An hour later we were back on the highway and soon afterwards switched to the 102 south to Halifax arriving at the Halifax airport about 4:30pm. 

That evening the four of us ensconced ourselves into easy chairs in the lobby and sipped wine chatting away the time until we walked across the hall for dinner (which was quite good).

backside of the entrance to the exhibition halls

beginning of the exhibition

comfortable couches were everywhere 

my lovely fish burger

Fortress Louisbourg on a rainy day

The rain began last evening while we were at dinner and continued on and off through much of the night. It was predicted to be our constant friend throughout today Sunday with the addition of a temperature. And add to the precipitation the temperature fell some 30 degrees (F) since yesterday!

Not to be deterred by such nuisances, after a leisurely breakfast we packed ourselves into the car and headed off to Fortress Louisbourg, on the far eastern shore of Cape Breton. 

The drive took us across another (free) car ferry at Little Narrows and through the Ekasoni First Nation  Mi'kmaq community located along the East Bay of Bras d'Or Lake. 

The rain continued as we made our way back in the vicinity of Sydney where we turned southeast on Rte 22 to Louisbourg and the 18th fortress, one of Canada's National Historic Site.

As we drove along the singular main street of the modern town of Louisbourg the four of us were struck by how utterly deserted it seemed -- businesses closed or indeed out of business. . . But on the far side of town we came across a bustling cafe, the North Star, and pulled into the parking lot for lunch.

Once inside we could smell the food and hear the banter of guests, some of them locals apparently. The food was very good and it turned out to be just the respite we needed from the rain, the cold, and the roadway.

It turned out this cafe was a "training" ground so to speak for their very large restaurant which was located directly behind the cafe and close to their lovely hotel overlooking the bay. We asked one of the owners what he did during the winer -- they were just getting ready to open their entire operation for this season -- and he replied that he goes to Grand Cayman and then home to Glasgow!

ferry at Little Narrows

From the North Star it was a 5-minute drive to the fortress. Located on a large spit of open land, this is one of Canada's premier historic sites. The reproduction 18th century fortified village provides a glimpse into the life of what life was like during the wars between France and England. 

Unfortunately, many of the interpretive parts of the village were closed (shoulder season don't you know), there were no signs describing the buildings anywhere and no maps were provided -- in fact we were instructed to use our phones to take a picture of the one map at the information center!  But they were still happy to take our money to wander the grounds anyway. 

Plus it was damn cold and the wind coming in off the Atlantic would bite right through you jacket.

While we were quite disappointed in the village, the King's Bastion or central fortress itself was impressive. Although the original structure and walls are long gone or at best in ruins, the reproduction was amazing. Here we came across several interpretive guides located in key parts of the structure who provided insight into 18th century life inside the fortress. The military chapel as well as the barracks and governor's apartments were fascinating.

entrance to the King's Bastion

interpretive guide inside the military chapel

interior grounds of the bastion

Richard just happy to be here!

view of the grounds from the bastion walls

Leaving the fortress we pushed homeward having achieved our goal for the day. 

That evening we decided to have supper at McCurdy's in the nearby Silver Dart Inn. 

(Silver Dart was the name of Alexander Graham Bell's airplane and J.A.D. McCurdy was the principal designer and pilot who flew the craft right off the frozen lake at Baddeck in 1909. A fascinating story, you can read more here.) 

The food was very good and creative we thought and the view of the bay lovely even in the rain. 

The service, as has so often been the case on Cape Breton, was superb. 

Our server, Emma, grew up in Baddeck and went to large one-building school right across the street overlooking the water. (She was one of 22 in her graduating class two years ago.) She is in her second year at St. Xavier University in Antigonish and was amazed when she heard we had stopped for lunch at the Tall and Small on our way north -- according to her it is the most popular coffee shop in town. 

Tomorrow we begin our long return home, stopping first just north of Halifax near the airport where we will say goodbye to Richard and Pauline on Monday (they continue their trip to the far west of Canada). Susie and I will then drive to Bangor Monday night and on to Albany Tuesday night and finally home on Wednesday.

The spectacular Cabot Trail followed by a dreary Sydney

Rain was promised for our first full day on Cape Breton and the sky was indeed overcast with hints of precipitation when we left Baddecck.

After a leisurely breakfast and setting down something resembling an itinerary for the day we packed ourselves into the car and drove north on Rte 105 out of town. Not far from Baddeck the Cabot Trail branched off to the left while the 105 continued on toward Sydney.

Once on the trail the road became that oh-so familiar meandering series of constant twists and turns but the upside was we pretty much had it all to ourselves. Mile after mile of birch tree stands occasionally broken by views of open water as we headed north to Ingonish where we would decide how to play out the rest of the day.

Every now and then the scenery would be accompanied by a sign, usually small and often hand-written, advertising an artist's studio or shop selling bric-a-brac. But the one that caught our eye was the Clucking Hen in North Shore claiming homemade pastries and a bathroom to boot! So naturally we stopped.

The view of the ocean and St. Anne's Bay was gorgeous and three of us sprung for the butter tarts which was proclaimed very good indeed.

After our brief but pleasant interlude we were back on the Trail to Ingonish. At one point the Trail climbed precipitously giving us a stunning southern views with several lobster boats checking traps:

We stopped at the Cape Breton Highlands National Park center -- a small part of the park is located here --and decided we would probably not push farther north. It was about time for lunch and there few dining options or stops along the Cabot Trail on this side of the island so we opted to find somewhere in Ingonish. 

Returning to our generally reliable Moon Guidebook of the Atlantic Maritimes, one recommendation was the Arduaine nestled among the buildings of the Keltic Lodge all located on a small peninsula. We made our way there and found ourselves inside a rather cavernous room overlooking the North Bay Ingonish Bay. As it turned out we were the only ones there (for lunch at any rate). Just another example of our being on Cape Breton right at the beginning of the tourists season.

But the food was good and the server, clearly new at his job but certainly trying his best, getting much-needed experience without any serious mistakes.

From Ingonish we retraced our steps but got off the Trail on Rte 312 and took the Englishtown Ferry and back on to the 105. 

waiting for the ferry

looking back down the causeway

Leaving the ferry we made our way back onto the 105. A few minutes later we came across a wonderful overlook, a view back to where we had just been, allowing us to see the Causeway and ferry landing. 

As we neared North Sydney we switched to the 305 on into downtown Sydney. 

We were in search a car park near the city center (Sydney is reportedly the only other "city" on Nova Scotia, after Halifax). Inching our way through sluggish traffic patterns and messy roadways we did indeed find the downtown but we could find no place to park nor did anything about the downtown seem accommodating or frankly of any interest to any of us. The buildings were tired, worn and had seen better days, much like many of the folk around there I suspect. 

I'm sure I'm being entirely unfair but the city seemed just so dreary. Having stopped at the waterfront Holiday Inn to use the bathrooms and to ask if there was anything we should try to see (little help there sad to say), Susie directed us to the best way out of the city, a process that took us quite some time due to an accident at one of the major intersections of highways and shopping strips.

Once back in Baddeck we drove to the nearby Inverary Resort and the Narrows Cafe and Bar (their restaurant had not yet opened for the season). Our supper of haddock bites and fries was tasty but the live music performed by one woman with an electric guitar became quite annoying so we took our leave and went home.

Another day in Cape Breton, with wonderful people and gorgeous views mixed with a dreary ride through a worn city. Sleep beckoned and so we surrendered.

To Cape Breton and Baddeck

 After checking out we walked our bags across the street to the parking lot and loaded up for the trip north, stopping briefly at the nearby Citadel before leaving the city.

From Halifax we retraced our route across the MacDonald Bridge through the streets of Dartmouth and on in the direction of the airport our goal being Antigonish where we would stop for lunch. From the greater Halifax area we took the 103 until Truro where we switched to the 105, also known as the Trans-Canadian Highway. 

Once we reached Antigonish (no connection apparently with the Sophocles' heroine) we made our way past St. Francis Xavier University into downtown and found our lunch stop, The Tall and Small. The shop was packed with young people bustling about and the sandwiches of fresh ingredients and home-baked breads were scrumptious.

Leaving Antigonish we returned to the 105 and before long crossed the Canso Causeway onto Cape Breton Island at Port Hastings. we quickly made our way up to our final stop for the next three days: Baddeck.

Due to my occasional bout of incompetence it took me several minutes to figure out how to get into the house. But once in we dropped our bags and walked to the (only) grocery store for essentials. Once back home we then drove to the nearby NSLC (Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation) store and stocked up on wines.

After groceries were put away and we were unpacked the wine was opened and the four of us sat out on the deck enjoying the view of the water in the distance. 

A little over 330kms in about 5 hours and we were on Cape Breton at long last.

That evening we walked down to the waterfront for dinner at the Freight Shed. recommended by our host Sherry we sat outside waiting for a table inside which, thank the gods, was not long in coming since the cold wind was a bit unpleasant although the view was lovely. Three of us had the seafood chowder while Richard went for beetroot salad.

our home for the next three days

the Freight Shed

view from our (first) table

up Chebucto (the main) Street. . .

. . . and down