The spectacular Cabot Trail followed by a dreary Sydney

Rain was promised for our first full day on Cape Breton and the sky was indeed overcast with hints of precipitation when we left Baddecck.

After a leisurely breakfast and setting down something resembling an itinerary for the day we packed ourselves into the car and drove north on Rte 105 out of town. Not far from Baddeck the Cabot Trail branched off to the left while the 105 continued on toward Sydney.

Once on the trail the road became that oh-so familiar meandering series of constant twists and turns but the upside was we pretty much had it all to ourselves. Mile after mile of birch tree stands occasionally broken by views of open water as we headed north to Ingonish where we would decide how to play out the rest of the day.

Every now and then the scenery would be accompanied by a sign, usually small and often hand-written, advertising an artist's studio or shop selling bric-a-brac. But the one that caught our eye was the Clucking Hen in North Shore claiming homemade pastries and a bathroom to boot! So naturally we stopped.

The view of the ocean and St. Anne's Bay was gorgeous and three of us sprung for the butter tarts which was proclaimed very good indeed.

After our brief but pleasant interlude we were back on the Trail to Ingonish. At one point the Trail climbed precipitously giving us a stunning southern views with several lobster boats checking traps:

We stopped at the Cape Breton Highlands National Park center -- a small part of the park is located here --and decided we would probably not push farther north. It was about time for lunch and there few dining options or stops along the Cabot Trail on this side of the island so we opted to find somewhere in Ingonish. 

Returning to our generally reliable Moon Guidebook of the Atlantic Maritimes, one recommendation was the Arduaine nestled among the buildings of the Keltic Lodge all located on a small peninsula. We made our way there and found ourselves inside a rather cavernous room overlooking the North Bay Ingonish Bay. As it turned out we were the only ones there (for lunch at any rate). Just another example of our being on Cape Breton right at the beginning of the tourists season.

But the food was good and the server, clearly new at his job but certainly trying his best, getting much-needed experience without any serious mistakes.

From Ingonish we retraced our steps but got off the Trail on Rte 312 and took the Englishtown Ferry and back on to the 105. 

waiting for the ferry

looking back down the causeway

Leaving the ferry we made our way back onto the 105. A few minutes later we came across a wonderful overlook, a view back to where we had just been, allowing us to see the Causeway and ferry landing. 

As we neared North Sydney we switched to the 305 on into downtown Sydney. 

We were in search a car park near the city center (Sydney is reportedly the only other "city" on Nova Scotia, after Halifax). Inching our way through sluggish traffic patterns and messy roadways we did indeed find the downtown but we could find no place to park nor did anything about the downtown seem accommodating or frankly of any interest to any of us. The buildings were tired, worn and had seen better days, much like many of the folk around there I suspect. 

I'm sure I'm being entirely unfair but the city seemed just so dreary. Having stopped at the waterfront Holiday Inn to use the bathrooms and to ask if there was anything we should try to see (little help there sad to say), Susie directed us to the best way out of the city, a process that took us quite some time due to an accident at one of the major intersections of highways and shopping strips.

Once back in Baddeck we drove to the nearby Inverary Resort and the Narrows Cafe and Bar (their restaurant had not yet opened for the season). Our supper of haddock bites and fries was tasty but the live music performed by one woman with an electric guitar became quite annoying so we took our leave and went home.

Another day in Cape Breton, with wonderful people and gorgeous views mixed with a dreary ride through a worn city. Sleep beckoned and so we surrendered.