Off to Puglia 2004

[29 February 2004].

Sunday is our last day in Amalfi. Another storm last night and on into early morning but a serious break of sun comes at last as we sit down for breakfast.

We (or rather Susie) finish packing up after breakfast, pay the bill and get our things to the car – we left it to the hotel to park when we first arrived. A wise choice since we have come to see over the last few days that even at this time of year finding parking can be a challenge. 

So at about 9 am we are off to the Greek temples at Paestum south of Naples before heading over to Puglia, a trip of about 80 km. This is definitely a place to see. Not one but three enormous very well preserved Greek temples dating to the 6th century BC. This is truly one amazing place. 

From Paestum we backtracked to the A3 superhighway and go toward Avellino to pick up the A16 to Bari – at the toll gate we pick up our ticket but run into a small glitch when we finally go to pay the toll with our credit card. It won’t take the card although it is signed for that and we had no problem on the A1 in using our credit card. We find this happened again on the A14 between Cerignola and Bari as well. We quickly learn to have ample Euros on hand. 

On the way we check out the exit for Cerignola ovest (west) – this is where we think we will get off for Stornara on Tuesday when we go to find the airfield Susan’s dad flew in and out of for some months during WW2. Some snow in the mountains and even bits on the highway but it’s a gorgeous sunny day and traffic is light (it moves fast anyway). After a drive of a bit over 400 km we arrive at our lodgings for the week, Masseria Salamina near Fasano. (Masseria are fortified farm complexes, many of which are working farms.)

We unload and unpack and relax until dinner (8 pm). There is no menu and no wine list (house red or white or both and we opt for a bit of both, plain and rather basic tasting). For starters we are brought each a plate consisting of eggplant, zucchini and a soufflé-like slice of heaven. Also bruschetta with a tapanade spread probably with red peppers. The primi course consists of thin-sliced artichokes with ground meat in a linguine-like pasta. For the secondi we are given a rolled sausage with French fries. For desert they bring out crème puffs and various sliced fruits (orange, kiwi, bananas and melon).

balcony of our apartment

one of the olive trees at the Masseria