Day 8 - Shiloh and the Natchez Trace

leg 6: 391 miles.

total miles: 2,124.

On the way out of Corinth we stopped at a Kroger to pick up a few groceries for the road, some fresh fruit and granola bars.

The drive from Corinth was only a short 22-miles or so to the Shiloh Battlefield but we had to detour around a downed tree and got slightly turned around on the backroads of Mississippi. As things would turn out this wouldn't be the only time we would find ourselves lost today.

Arriving at the battlefield we made our way to the visitor center for a short review of the battle.

Leaving the car we strolled passed the national cemetery and down to Pittsburg Landing. Little remains today of what must have been a chaotic scene of men, horses and equipment being offloaded from boats and steamers on the Tennessee River and then brought uphill.

Pittsburg Landing

looking uphill from the Landing

national cemetery overlooking the Tennessee River

Returning to our car through the cemetery we got out the tour guide map and with Susie navigating we toured the cemetery.

As we walked and drove through forests along open fields it's hard to imagine, in fact it's impossible to imagine the carnage, the terror and horror that must have been wrought around that little log church called the Shiloh Meeting House during those terrible days in April 1862. Read more about Shiloh.

the Iowa monument

Michigan monument

Confederate Ruggles' Battery - near where more than 2,100 Union soldiers were captured

park road, near Ruggles' Battery

across the road from Shiloh Church

Shiloh Church, still active

replica of the original church, which was destroyed during the battle

Mississippi monument

stop 10 the Hornet's Nest

sunken road in the Hornet's Nest

Minnesota monument in the Hornet's Nest

sunken road out of the Hornet's Nest

one of five known confederate mass burial trenches

Tennessee monument

monument marking where Confederate General Albert S. Johnston was mortally wounded

Bloody Pond

park road

From the battlefield we returned to Rte 22 and made our way north to the town of Crump where we turned east in US 64 heading for the Natchez Trace.

We entered the Trace at milepost 370 and turned northeast. At about milepost 386 we found our next objective for the day: the site along the Trace where Meriwether Lewis (as in Lewis and Clark) died under mysterious circumstances and was buried.

His grave is well-marked (compliments of the State of Tennessee) and is the only grave with an upright stone in Pioneer Cemetery.

There are more than 100 burials here but all the other stones, most of which are marked, are small flat, square stones, placed by the War Department long ago. Quite a few Flanigans and Hinsons. Lots of other stories buried there, I'm sure.

You can also find sections of the old Trace at this site as well as a period-style cabin on the site of Grinder's Stand, the inn where Lewis was staying when he died. Read more.

From the Lewis site we continued north passing several overlooks as well as sections of the old Trace.

At junction Rte 7 where we turned off in search of an entrance to I-840 and promptly got lost, turned around and found ourselves passing beneath the interstate several times. As a last resort we turned to Google map and soon found our entrance.

We cruised on I-840 for an hour or so and then turned straight east on I-40 heading for Knoxville. We had the good fortune to run into only moderate rush-hour traffic around the city and got off at exit 398 and our hotel. After unpacking the car we walked across the parking lot to Aubrey's Restaurant where we experienced one of the best meals we've had on the road so far -- good food and even better wine!

Tomorrow we hope to explore around Pigeon Forge before moving on to Roanoke -- happy trails! 

Day 7 - Mississippi

leg 5: 330 miles. 
total: 1733 miles.

From the hotel it was a short hop to get on I-20 east out of Vicksburg. At exit 34 we got off the interstate to the Natchez Trace. A very ancient route for both humans and animals, like the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia, the Trace is also a national park with limited access, no commercial vehicles, lovely scenery and a speed limit (50) that strongly urges one to slow down and literally smell the flowers.

The Trace runs some 444 miles from Natchez, MS, to about 17 miles southwest of Nashville, TN.
We followed the Trace passed the Ross Barnett Reservoir which provides incredible views to the east/southeast.

At about milepost 115 along the Trace we exited onto Route 43 and made our way to I-55 north (we hope to rejoin the Trace later in TN in search of the burial site for Meriwether Lewis); we began our first day in I-55 south to St. Louis. We sped right along and got off at Batesville, MS (exit 243). We followed Routes 278/6 to Oxford, MS and exited toward Courthouse Square.

Traffic was a bit sluggish getting close to the Square this Sunday morning so we got out of the line  and found our way to a quiet stretch of on-street parking. (We had missed the hugely popular Double Decker Arts & Crafts Festival which had just ended the day before.) From the car we walked to the Square and quickly found our objective: City Grocery, where we spent the next hour or so having a relaxing (and delicious) lunch.

the Courthouse

traffic snarls

one reason for the town name

Susie and William Faulkner (yep he was from here once)

After lunch  we strolled around the square, marveled at how much money was apparently being spent in this little town, and headed back to the car.

Back on Route 278 we followed it to US 45 north at Tupelo.

We exited at Corinth, MS, just south of the Tennessee border, and made our way to the Corinth Battlefield Interpretive Center. It was getting late in the day and we were about the last folks to drop in. We were amazed by the fantastic walkway up to the building: it was littered with bits and pieces of the detritus of war (replicas of course) embedded in the concrete that represented, we were told, the detritus found in the wake of a battle. Amazing indeed.

Inside we were equally struck by the incredible water feature and sculpture in the small courtyard -- and we hadn't even gotten to the exhibits yet!

There is also a lovely relief sculpture at the entrance to the building:

After watching a short movie that succinctly explained the nuances of the Shiloh battle we walked through the several wonderful rooms of exhibits before leaving. Oh, and we picked up a driving guide map for Shiloh before we left.

We made our way back to Route 45 and our hotel, another Hampton Inn (we're staying at nine on this trip). There were few options for dinner, it being Sunday and Corinth being small so we settled for the snacks we brought along. It didn't really matter since we had a wonderful and hearty lunch in Oxford.

Tomorrow, we head for Shiloh, back to the Trace and Meriwether Lewis and then on to Knoxville for the night. Stay tuned!