Kafka's head, another castle, and Dvorak's grave

5 May 2022.

Susie and I were unusually leisurely this morning. We had no definite plan and it was about time we started thinking of getting ready to leave tomorrow. So, the Tarte did one last load of laundry while I worked on blog notes and photos.

We walked out of the apartment heading for the river in search of Frank Gehry's Dancing House. A block or so along out street we passed this wonderful sculpture in the side of an otherwise nondescript building. The date refers to the Velvet Revolution, the nonviolent transition of power from a one-party system dominated by the Communists to a parliamentary democracy. (Need more information?)

the date of the Velvet Revolution

There was serious construction along the street so the tram stops had been moved around and the signage unclear. As a result we ended walking the short distance down along the river to the Dancing House. 

paddle boats in an inlet off the river

looking north up the river toward the Prague Castle (in the far distance)

facing the river

Thanks to Grand Haven friends Patti and Paul for the tip about this particular Gehry design.

Frank Gehry's Dancing House

you never know what you're going to see on the street

From there we headed back toward the center of town in search of Franz Kafka’s mechanical head. This was just one of the things we discovered by chance somewhere in our readings. 

Franz Kafka's mechanical head

Designed and installed by David Černy, this incredible work of art consists of 42 rotating panels and each panel is timed to move independently of the others. Every hour on the hour it forms and reforms the head for some 15 minutes creating striking visual effects. If you don’t believe me, just check out my short video (about 5 minutes long):

Since Kafka’s head was quite close by our apartment we decided to stop at home for lunch and a short nap for me.

Back out on the street we walked in the direction of the old town square keeping our eye out for a trdlo shop; they specialize in a scrumptious sweet bread wrapped around a spit and grilled then filled with ice cream. As sheriff Andy would say, Ummmmm good!

special rolled grilled cakes with ice cream inside

After our post-lunch dessert we made our way back to the river and the tram no. 17 heading south. We got off at Vyton and wended our way up to Vysehrad (“high castle”). This castle, reportedly one of the oldest in the city, is pretty much all gone except for some rather imposing walls; much of the interior is a park. There is a lovely basilica, plenty of great views of the city and my objective Vysehrad Cemetery. Here among the wonderful sculpture you can find (and I did) the graves of composer Antonin Dvorak and art nouveau painter and illustrator Alphonse Mucha. 

walking up to the grounds of one of the oldest castles in the city

Dvorak's tomb in Vysehrad cemetery

view up the river from the castle walls

Leaving the cemetery we strolled along the walls to take in the views and at one point were joined by a large group of bicyclists from the Netherlands (presumably since their bikes all said PraagBikeTours.nl).

Moving a bit further along the walls we found an open bench to sit relax and take in the views for at least a few moments.

part of a Dutch biking tour

original castle grounds, now a park

the old castle basilica

walking back down - and the hope that love does conquer all

Having rested enough we headed back down to the tram stop and home. 

Our last supper in Prague was especially good. I had come across a wine bar in the Rough Guide called Monarch and since it was less than a five-minute walk from our apartment, off we went a little before 7pm (1900). They are known for two things apparently: wine and steaks. In fact they have a steak tasting for two and even one for four! (Who knew such a thing as a steak tasting existed?) We each chose the burger which came with their house-made bun and house-made fries. The food was, to say the least, incredible. 

For wines we opted for Czech red wines. Since it was clear by looking around the room that wine was taken as seriously as their meat and the wine list was a small novella, I asked the waiter for a suggestion of a red Czech wine to have with the burgers. He said, quite matter-of-factly, that the Czech Republic doesn’t produce very good red wine but we took the plunge anyway and went with a Merlot from Craig Stapleton (not a Czech name but hey you take what you can get). Both the starter and main course wines were nice but the guy was right, far from stellar. 

To round the evening we each had a glass of Hungarian Tokaj; and that was equally delicious.

burgers and Czech red wine at Monarch

After supper it was a quick stroll home and finish preparing for the next day.

Tomorrow it's time to leave Prague and move on to an overnight in Hamburg before our next apartment, in Copenhagen.

Time flies when you're having fun!