Visiting Friends in Traverse City

I can't recall the last time one of us said "Hey, let's pack a bag and get out of town for a couple of nights." But that's pretty much what we did last week.

It began with a simple text to friends Patty and Paul in Grand Haven asking if they'd like to get together for dinner. Patty shot back a note asking "how about coming up to our condo in Traverse City?" And we thought, "Sure, why not?" 

And so Thursday afternoon November 3 we left Eagle Ridge Court and drove north up US131. After about 2 hours on the road we found ourselves wandering around the grounds of the old North Michigan State Hospital looking for their condo.

Now it should be made clear that the hospital, a psychiatric institution with a distinguished past,  has been closed for many years. Since its closure most of the buildings have been resurrected as  retail shops, studios, offices, restaurants, and, of course, living spaces.

former maintenance workshops, condos to the left and right and retail in the center

Patty and Paul's building

After unpacking and settling in we just enjoyed doing nothing special but standing around, chatting, counting the minutes until Happy Hour. . . and dinner. 

That evening we walked a couple hundred meters to the largest and grandest of the original buildings of  the old hospital, Building 50, now used for offices, retail shops and two restaurants, one of which, "Stella" was our venue of choice for dinner. (We ate here over 7 years ago with friends Richard and Pauline.) Located in the basement the restaurant is quite large and we ate in what was once part of the root cellar complex.

Friday morning began with sun and blue sky. Patty gave us a tour of the old hospital grounds, now part of a conservancy trust that includes two huge barns used for events, lovely gardens, at least two of which are designed for children, and a large network of trails that meander through the woods and the hills behind the former asylum. We also had the opportunity to pay our respects to the cow buried at the hospital,  prize-winning Colantha Walker (photo below).

strolling on one of the numerous trails around the old hospital grounds

the original caretaker's cottage undergoing renovation

Judith Groleau's Labyrinth

the only known grave on the hospital grounds

one of two children's gardens

the former men's wing awaiting renovation

After our morning stroll we stepped across the street for brunch at Sugar 2 Salt, a lovely space that served up some absolutely scrumptious food. I had Ham Risotto on a bed of mashed Butternut Squash. You should've been there. . . 

brunch at Sugar-2-Salt

After brunch and the rain notwithstanding the four of us piled into their car and headed out of town, north up the Old Mission Peninsula. After stopping at Burritt's Market for steaks (more about that later) and then Folgarelli's Market for a dinner wine, we made our way up Rte 37. 

Our goal, if indeed we had one, was to stop at 2 Lads Winery for both the view of the East Arm Grand Traverse Bay and a wine tasting, both of which we successfully achieved with much fanfare on our part. 

(Tip: stick to the whites, the red Pint Noir Paul thought thin and lacking in much character; the rest of us sampled flights of whites and thought the Riesling and Cabernet Franc quite nice. Prices a bit high vis-á-vis say French or California whites. But hey it's local.)

wine tasting at 2 Lads' Winery on the Old Mission Peninsula

Once we were back at the condo we popped over to Left Foot Charley's Winery for a glass before dinner. The rain refused to let up but we tucked ourselves into their outdoor tent away from the Swiss dinner for the evening which left quite a pungent aroma just about everywhere. The one drawback was the solo guitarist playing pretty much directly at us refused to take a break.

a glass of local wine at Left Foot Charley's near the condo

Returning to the condo for the night Paul fired up the grill for the steaks, microwaved the potatoes and haricot vert (compliments of Burritt's Market) and we sat down to another delicious meal washed down by a bottle of Modus from Ruffino in Tuscany (half the price of 2 Lads Pinot and twice the quality we thought). On the anniversary of my dad's death and his birth we always try to have steak (his favorite), a tradition Susie and I replay for her dad Tunis as well. Anyway, Paul and Patty were up for joining us and Paul loves a good steak. . . and his were exceptional to be sure! 

in memory of my dad who loved steak and baked potato

The next morning, Saturday was overcast but no rain yet. The four of us walked down to Building 50 to check out the Farmer's Market that had just moved indoor for the winter. Mostly craft vendors but some farmer's there as well and I picked up a pair of parsnips and a Napa cabbage for later in the week.

Farmer's Market Saturday morning in Building 50

Back at the condo we packed up, said our goodbyes with a round of much-welcomed hugs and off we went back on US131 south and home. The return trip was uneventful and we were fortunate in beating the widely predicted storm. 

To learn more visit Traverse City State Hospital. 

PS - I took this photo out our front door yesterday, November 19, compliments of the first major snowstorm to hit Grand Rapids this year. . .