Big Day in Paris

April 30.

A very relaxing morning in our apartment, feeling like we're home, catching up on blogging, having breakfast, and deciding on our approach to public transport.

Once we got going we made a beeline for the nearby Auchan grocery store to finish stocking up on food for the remainder of the trip. After dropping our groceries off at the apartment we then headed off to the Metro, heading up to Place Nation where we bought our 3-day transport passes and hopped on line 1 to Saint-Paul.

Saint-Paul stop

near Saint-Paul

It's strawberry season!

From Saint-Paul we made our way on foot to Place des Vosges for coffee and a pastry at Carette, a popular spot for pastries, coffee, lunch and more.

Place des Vosges

Carette

Susie had fraiser and I had a chocolate éclair

By the time we left the cafe it was getting on to the meet up time for our cooking class. We walked to the Bastille and took the no. 5 to Gare d'Austerlitz thinking we would connect to the 10 which would take us right to our meeting point at Mabillon Metro station. Well, as is sometimes the case with the Paris Metro, things didn't quite work out that way -- we got stymied by the ongoing major renovation of the train station and ended up returned to the 5 back to the 1 to the 4. Unusually convoluted and a bit frustrating but hey we have the passes!

We arrived at the meetup point early so we strolled around the nearby Marché Saint-Germain. Built some two centuries ago and renovated numerous times since, this large square building with porticos on all four sides hosts a variety of shops, including a florist, an Apple store, an Epic grocery store and an indoor market with a variety of food stalls including fishmongers, cheesemongers, butchers and a couple of cafes with casual fare (Lebanese in one for example).

under a portico at the Marché

fishmonger

butcher shop

Eventually we met our group and chef for the evening, an engaging fellow named Paolo. Off we went for our market tour, which was not surprisingly at the Marché Saint-German. 

For the next forty minutes or so Paolo gave his presentation on French cheeses followed by a brief discussion of beef and then fish. He also informed us of the menu for the evening: starter of cauliflower-leek soup, followed by a duck variant of beef Bourguignon (in a pressure cooker) with potato Dauphinois, and ending with floating islands (meringues in crème Anglaise).

From the market we all made our way to the Metro (line 10) getting off at Cardinal Lemoine and walking the few short meters to Le Foodist school.

Once settled in Paolo explained the mise en place for each course and we were given tasks, generally working in teams. Peeling carrots, chopping leeks, shallots, onions and garlic, prepping cauliflower by separating some florets for roasting and chopping the rest, prepping the duck legs for searing, peeling and slicing potatoes then layering in the roasting pans. 

We were also responsible for preparing our own meringue quenelles for poaching, sliding them atop the team prepared crème Anglaise. The desserts were assembled ahead, able to be held in the fridge until it was their turn to be enjoyed.

Lots of fun and easy going banter as we all went about our jobs, some finishing a little early and then pitching in to help others who were tasked with a bit more involved work. 

roasted cauliflower for the soup and the just-out-of-oven potato Dauphinois

Anyway, a little after 9:00 pm the puréed cauliflower leek soup was heated and waiting on the stove top, the potatoes and duck were ready and it was time to plate the food.

duck, carrots from the pot and Dauphinois

The wine poured freely ("red or white?") and we spent the rest of the night learning about the lives of folks who just a few hours before were total strangers. A grand evening cooking and eating out!

The evening was fast slipping away so we all said our goodbyes and went our separate ways - ships passing in the night literally. . . off we went to the Metro and back home.

Next: May Day in Père-Lachaise!

Back to Paris

April 29.

After another wonderful leisurely breakfast at Richard and Pauline's home we finished packing up and the four of us headed for the Agen train station, which is undergoing serious renovation. We had a round of good hugs as we said our goodbyes and spoke of hopefully seeing each other again next year somewhere in the world!

After our hosts left we sat to wait for our train, which arrived on time. The one hiccup was the train car location information posted on the digital display in the terminal sent us to the wrong end of the train. But we scurried to the right end and found our car and seats and settled in for the nearly four-hour trip to Gare Montparnasse.

Once we arrived at the station we found the taxi stand in short order. We snagged a cab for the ride through rush hour to our apartment in the 12th arrondissement, not far from Père-Lachaise Cemetery.

The apartment building is a stone's throw from Picpus Cemetery which is where the Marquis de Lafayette is buried. His grave is the only place in Paris aside from the American Embassy where the American flag is always flying. Unfortunately the open hours are limited and it looks as though we won't be able to pay it a visit.

we're on the 3rd floor

looking back down at rue de Picpus

On the way up our street we noticed a Franprix grocery store nearby and soon headed over to pick up a few essentials for the next several days. 

Back in the apartment Susie unpacked us, we settled in with a glass of wine and just relaxed after our day of relatively stress-free travel. A light dinner and eventually it was off to bed.

Next: Big day in Paris!

Enjoying the Gers

April 28.

The highlight of this leisurely Sunday was lunch at Auberge Le Cousteau. Located out in the lovely Gers countryside a short drive from Mouchan, it is a quintessential French country restaurant as well as a chambres d'hôtes with five rooms for overnight guests. 

The menu was simple: choose one each from three courses, with wine on the table along with water; an aperitif and amuse bouche at the beginning and coffee and digestif at the end of the meal, all included. 

Auberge Le Cousteau

amuse bouche of crème fraîche with beetroot and herbs

salmon salad

goat cheese and chorizo salad

porc noir with tomato and potato Dauphinoise

apple croustade

gratinée framboise

And yes, Susie did indeed order the Café Gourmande, expecting petite bites of the five desserts on the menu! Whoa - over the top!

Café Gourmande

After lunch Richard drove us all to nearby Chateau Lanvardens for an exhibition of illustrations by Perry Taylor. There was also a rather extensive exhibition of glass sculptures and knick-knacks by a variety of artists.

After we left the chateau the four of us, along with a number of other tourists, strolled around this lovely little village before heading back to the car park and home.

That evening Pauline laid out a lovely light supper for us as we continued our respite from traveling hither and yon.

Next: Back to Paris!

Off to Mouchan

 April 27.

At breakfast we said goodbye to the skaters and rolled our bags across the street to the tram stop. One change and in about 10 minutes we were at the train station. 

The train arrived on time, we found our seats just fine and settled in for the hour or so uneventful ride to Agen. Once there we located Richard and Pauline's car in the car park next to the station and unloaded our bags. After an unsuccessful attempt to get into one place for lunch we opted to return to the gare and eat there. The food was fine and service good.

Bordeaux train station

Agen station, currently undergoing major renovations

After lunch we retrieved the car and made our way out of town, stopping at the Intermarché supermarket in Condom for groceries.

squeeze your own fresh oranges and pineapples

From the market it was a short drive to their home in the lovely little village of Mouchan (400 plus souls). We were soon reminded that it was exactly 15 years ago that we were last in this house!

Next door to their home is an 11th century Romanesque church, unfortunately not open while we were there.

Since it was a lovely afternoon, we went for a stroll around the village before dinner.

the church front side (entrance on the far left)

war memorial from the War of 1870 and WW1

the sky portends rain

the front of their house

Pauline prepared a lovely meal of steamed salmon, steamed carrots and green beans followed by an apple croustade.

Next: Day of food and rest.